A winter guide to St. Moritz

Three women lie back in a striped outdoor day bed wearing furs, hats and sunglasses

There's something wonderfully theatrical about St. Moritz. A frozen lake, 322 days of sunshine a year, and a ski history that stretches back to 1864 – this is the resort where Alpine winter tourism was born, and it still knows how to put on a show. 

We spoke with Sebastian Waldschmidt, Vice Director of Cresta Palace Celerina to get a local view – and the inside scoop – on one of the most glamorous resorts in the Alps. Having worked in some of the Graubünden's finest establishments, Sebastian has plenty of advice to share with those planning their next St. Moritz ski holiday. 

If you're planning a ski vacation in St. Moritz, this article will guide you through everything from where to stay to the best places to ski, skate and explore.

Skaters gliding on the frozen Lake St. Moritz and a skier riding the St. Moritzpiste

Skating on the natural ice of Lake St. Moritz. Image credit Travis Kauffman, Justin Kauffman & St. Moritz tourism.

 

A brief history of St. Moritz 

St. Moritz's ski story begins with a wager. In 1864, hotelier Johannes Badrutt bet his summer guests that Engadin winters were just as glorious as its summers – and offered to refund their trip if he was wrong. They arrived at Kulm Hotel in the snow and stayed until Easter, and that famous bet is credited with inventing Alpine winter tourism. 

That old-world glamour still sets St. Moritz apart today, making it a popular destination for skiing and a wealth of other activities and events. Engadin’s winter tourism is built as much around its frozen lake as its slopes, where the snowy months bring skiing, polo, horse racing, car racing, cross-country skiing, skating and curling. 

Interior of Kulm hotel and a valet in uniform with a porsche

Where to stay: St. Moritz’s best hotels

Wondering where to stay in St. Moritz? Finding the right accommodation can transform your ski trip into an unforgettable experience. St. Moritz and the Engadin valley offers everything from grand historic palaces to sleek boutique hotels, each with its own take on Alpine hospitality. 

The wider Engadin valley is made up of magnificent mountain landscapes and more than ten villages. Some villages are better connected to the ski infrastructure than others – for example, St. Moritz itself, Suvretta, Celerina and Surlej (Silvaplana) are all very well connected. 

A yellow and cream hotel facade with a sign saying 'KULM' and snow in the foreground
Image credit: Nils Grubba & St. Moritz Tourism

Kulm Hotel. This is where it all began: Badrutt won his wager at Kulm Hotel, and it has collected alpine history ever since – the Cresta Run (skeleton toboggan) was born in its grounds, and it stood at the heart of both of St. Moritz's Winter Olympic Games. A fixture on any list of the best hotels St. Moritz offers, pairing a panoramic spa and pool with three restaurants and that famous view over the frozen lake — this 5 star superior hotel is a popular choice for luxury travellers.

The Grand Hotel des Bains Kempinski nestled in the snowy Engadin valley
Image credit: Justin Kauffman & St. Moritz Tourism

Grand Hotel des Bains Kempinski. Where St. Moritz's story began as a spa town, the Kempinski carries this history with style: this 5-star luxury hotel sits in St. Moritz Bad above the valley's original healing spring, with one of the Alps' largest spas where skiers love to unwind after a day on the slopes. It's also the luxury address closest to the lifts – the Signalbahn up to Corviglia is a two-minute walk – and behind the historic 1864 façade the feel is contemporary, international five-star rather than old-world formality. 

Hotel Cresta Palace Celerina basking in winter sunshine
Hotel Cresta Palace Celerina

Hotel Cresta Palace Celerina. Since 1906, this historic grand hotel has combined traditional elegance with modern comfort. Enjoy the warm hospitality of this 4 star superior hotel which offers excellent cuisine, relaxing wellness experiences in their expansive spa area, and a unique location in the charming village of Celerina, just a few steps from the ski lifts.

Hotel Steffani's blue indoor spa pool lit up with lights, there are arched windows looking to the street outside.
Hotel Steffani's indoor pool and spa area

Hotel Steffani. Family-owned since 1869, Hotel Steffani is a living symbol of St. Moritz's hospitality heritage. Over the past 150 years, it has hosted generations of guests and welcoming athletes and members of one of the world's most exclusive winter sporting traditions, the legendary Cresta Run. Complementing its rich history, the hotel offers modern rooms and wellness facilities, including an indoor swimming pool, a Spa and a compact fitness Gym, providing guests with the perfect balance of relaxation and traditional Engadin hospitality.

 

If these St. Moritz luxury hotels are beyond your budget, see our guide to affordable accommodation in St. Moritz for a broader offering to suit a wide range of travellers. 

 

What to wear in St. Moritz

Not sure what to pack? Take cues from the regulars:

  • In Corviglia, think chic, sleek silhouettes from Halfdays and Rudsak.
  • Corvatsch's steep descents calls for proper freeride kit from Fjällräven and Ortovox.
  • In Silvaplana, home to freestyle ski and snowboard contests, expect trending brands like Houdini and rising star WHITESPACE, founded by triple Olympic gold medallist Shaun White. 
Two skiers doing cartwheels on the slopes above St. Moritz
Image credit: Travis Kauffman & St. Moritz Tourism


Hire ski clothing online, delivered to your door in St. Moritz

Travel light, ski in style – hire your favourite ski outfit with Cirkel Supply before you travel and it will be ready and waiting at your hotel as you arrive. We offer ski clothing for men, women and children from a variety of brands including Patagonia, Fjällräven, Ortovox, Halfdays, Hestra, Rudsak, Houdini and WHITESPACE. 

Whatever the look, you can rent it with our skiwear rental service – just remember that outfits are quickly booked out during peak season, and for any time of year, it’s essential to book your rental at least 3-days in advance. 

A yellow chairlift for accessing the pistes of St. Moritz

Image credit: Travis Kauffman & St. Moritz Tourism

 

Mastering St. Moritz's Slopes: The Best Pistes for All Levels

Now that your ski kit is sorted, it’s time to carve up the slopes. 

St. Moritz's skiing is spread across three separate areas – Corviglia, Corvatsch and Diavolezza-Lagalb – linked by bus and train rather than by lift, so each is best treated as a day out in its own right. Between them there's over 300 km of piste, so there's something for every level:

For Beginners. Head to Salastrains on the Corviglia side, St. Moritz's dedicated family ski area, for gentle gradients and a sunny, south-facing aspect that makes for a forgiving first turn. Corviglia's “White Carpet” sees pistes freshly groomed from 07:45, so beginners get first tracks on perfect corduroy. 

Intermediate Runs. Corviglia is the local mountain and an intermediate's playground – wide, sunny blues and reds all the way up to Piz Nair at 3,057 m, with plenty of scope for long, cruisy runs and mid-ski photo opportunities overlooking the lake.

Advanced Trails. For thrills, spills and the most reliable snow in the valley, Corvatsch is unbeatable – north-facing, glacier-fed, and open for powder turns throughout the season. To make the most of Corvatsch’s extensive freeride terrain, hire a qualified mountain guide. If you’re lucky enough to visit later in the season, keep an eye out for the FIS Freeski & Snowboard World Cup to catch the world’s best skiers and snowboarders defying gravity in the slopestyle and halfpipe events. For those looking for peace and quiet, Diavolezza-Lagalb offers steep, secluded terrain with front-row views of the Bernina massif, and Lagalb in particular remains something of a locals' secret. 

A group of skiers posing together on the slopes above St. Moritz
Image credit: Nils Grubba & St. Moritz Tourism

Ski School St. Moritz | Private ski instructors, group ski lessons

Learning to ski in St. Moritz? Don’t fall into the trope of letting your nearest and dearest show you the ropes – it’s not as romantic as you may think.

Book ski lessons to ensure that you take your skiing to the next level and keep your relationship intact. Our friends at Cresta Palace recommend The Red Legends, St. Moritz Ski School, and we also know that European Snowsport are particularly popular with international visitors. 

Horses racing on the frozen lake during White Turf in St. Moritz
Image credit: Travis Kauffman & St. Moritz Tourism

The best time to visit St. Moritz

St. Moritz typically welcomes reliable snowfall from December to late March. With an absolutely stacked social calendar, travellers can choose from a smorgasbord of events that will make your trip more than just a ski holiday:

 

The Signalbahn cable car station in St. Moritz
Image credit: Justin Kauffman & St. Moritz Tourism


How to get to St. Moritz from Zurich

Go by train. St. Moritz isn't car-free like some of its Alpine neighbours, but the train is still the smartest way in – the Zurich HB to St. Moritz route via Chur and the UNESCO-listed Albula line takes around 3.5 hours and is a scenic trip in its own right. 

For those preferring the convenience of a transfer, Alps2Alps will pick you up from Zurich Airport and deliver you directly to your hotel in St. Moritz. 

Skiing both St. Moritz and Zermatt on the same holiday? The iconic Glacier Express links the two resorts directly, so you can enjoy Cirkel's skiwear rental service at both ends of the journey. 

A rider hurtling down the famous Cresta Run toboggan track in St. Moritz

Our tips to book your best St. Moritz ski trip

Book online and in advance. St. Moritz draws a loyal, well-heeled crowd, and the best hotels, restaurant tables and ski instructors get booked up fast in peak season (Christmas, and the February half-term). Be sure to book your accommodation, ski school and, of course, your skiwear rental, well ahead of time to avoid disappointment.

For more local information, stmoritz.com offers a wealth of information on all topics – and some exclusive deals and discounts for early bookers.